We’ve spent the day wandering through Bendigo, and I have to say, the sheer scale of the history here is enough to make your head spin. It’s a town that wears its golden past on its sleeve, but there’s a real mix of cultures that you wouldn't necessarily expect to find tucked away in this part of the Victorian bush.
Walking through the centre of town, we were both struck by how grand everything feels. The buildings are massive, built with that solid, confident sandstone that screams "gold rush wealth."
Lisa and I spent a good while just looking at the old architecture. It’s hard to imagine the noise and the dust of the 1860s when you’re standing in such a quiet, leafy street today. We headed over to the Chinese precinct, which is a massive part of the story here. The contribution of the Chinese miners is celebrated everywhere you look. We saw this incredible, vibrant red and yellow sculpture that looks like a blooming lotus or perhaps a stylized flame, reaching up towards the blue sky. It’s a brilliant splash of colour against the greenery.
Further along, we found ourselves at the Joss House Temple. It’s one of the oldest of its kind in regional Australia, and stepping inside is like stepping into another world entirely. The red brickwork is lined with intricate banners, and the altar to Guan Di is draped in rich red fabrics and peacock feathers. You can still smell the incense in the air.
The grounds are just as beautiful, with traditional pavilions that make you forget for a moment that you’re in the middle of Victoria. Lisa really appreciated the serenity of the gardens there; it’s a far cry from the hectic life the miners must have led.
Of course, you can't talk about Bendigo without mentioning the mines. We didn't go underground this time—my knees aren't quite what they used to be for all those ladders—but we stood beneath the massive white headframe of the Central Deborah Gold Mine. Seeing that jagged steel structure reaching up, you really get a sense of the industrial muscle it took to keep this town running.
Towering over everything else in the skyline, though, is the Sacred Heart Cathedral. It’s an absolute monster of a building. I was telling Lisa that they started this back in the late 1800s and it took them nearly a century to officially call it finished. Even then, they never quite got around to those final spires they'd planned.
The main spire that did get built is a real landmark. Standing at the base and looking up at that stone point piercing the deep blue sky, you can't help but feel a bit small. It’s a proper Gothic masterpiece, with gargoyles and all the trimmings.
To top off our day of looking at the spiritual side of things, we drove just a bit out of town to the Great Stupa of Universal Compassion. It’s a bit of a shock to the system to be driving through the scrub and suddenly see a massive, 50-metre-high Tibetan stupa rising out of the trees. It’s all brilliant white with a golden top, guarded by these two ornate lion statues at the front.
It’s a very peaceful place to end the day. We walked around the grounds, just taking in the quiet. It’s funny how a place built on the frantic search for gold has ended up being such a centre for a bit of peace and quiet. We’re both feeling a bit tuckered out now, but it’s been a grand day of exploring.
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