We woke up in Waratah to a world that had completely changed overnight. It was a proper freezing morning, and looking out the window, the entire town was blanketed in a frost so thick you’d swear it had been snowing. Everything from the rooftops to the grassy banks of the water was dusted in brilliant white.

A thick white frost covering the banks of the water in Waratah.
A thick white frost covering the banks of the water in Waratah.

Lisa and I took a bit of time to "thaw out" before we dared to head out. Even the local buildings looked like they were shivering under that layer of ice. I went for a quick wander to see how the town looked from above, and the way the frost clung to the church and the empty streets was really something else. It certainly makes you appreciate a hot cup of tea.

Looking down on the town church and hall under a heavy layer of ice.
Looking down on the town church and hall under a heavy layer of ice.

Once the sun gained a bit of strength, we made our way back over to Cradle Mountain. We were secretly hoping to see some fresh snow on the peaks after such a cold snap, but it wasn't to be. Instead, what we found was plenty of ice. It was everywhere, making the tracks a bit of a challenge in spots.

The morning sun hitting the frosted rooftops of the local buildings.
The morning sun hitting the frosted rooftops of the local buildings.

We decided on a 7km loop taking in Crater Falls, Crater Lake, and Wombat Lake. We’ve learnt over the years that there’s no point rushing these things; we prefer to stop, catch our breath, and actually look at what’s around us. We spent just over three hours out there, with about two and a half of that spent actually moving. The air was crisp and clear, the kind that really wakes up the lungs.

Standing at the start of the Overland Track with the mountain peaks in the distance.
Standing at the start of the Overland Track with the mountain peaks in the distance.

The track took us across the button grass plains on those long boardwalks. It’s a strange, beautiful landscape, though I had to keep a firm grip on the rail where the timber was still slick with ice. Lisa is usually more sure-footed than me, but even she was taking it easy on the slippery bits.

The long boardwalk stretching out across the button grass plains.
The long boardwalk stretching out across the button grass plains.

When we reached Crater Falls, the water was absolutely roaring. The contrast of the white rushing water against the dark, mossy rocks was beautiful. You can really feel the chill coming off the spray when it’s this cold.

Crater Falls rushing over moss-covered rocks in the middle of the forest.
Crater Falls rushing over moss-covered rocks in the middle of the forest.

Further up, the scenery just kept getting better. We reached the edge of the water where a little rustic hut sat tucked away, looking out over the cliffs. The water was a deep, cold blue, and the silence up there was incredible.

The view from the rustic boat shed looking out over the dark waters of Crater Lake.
The view from the rustic boat shed looking out over the dark waters of Crater Lake.

The climb continued over some fairly rocky terrain. I found myself checking the trail signs quite often just to make sure we were still on the right path, as the landscape starts to look very similar when you're surrounded by those jagged grey peaks.

Following the rocky path upward toward the high trail markers.
Following the rocky path upward toward the high trail markers.

Every lake we passed had its own character. Wombat Lake was particularly peaceful, framed by these ancient-looking, twisted trees that looked like they’d seen a thousand winters just like this one.

The still waters of Wombat Lake framed by a weathered old tree.
The still waters of Wombat Lake framed by a weathered old tree.

The absolute highlight of the walk, though, was the wildlife. We ended up seeing seven wombats in total! We came across a mum and her small joey right near the boardwalk. They weren't bothered by us at all, just busy munching away on the grass.

A mother wombat and her joey foraging together in the afternoon light.
A mother wombat and her joey foraging together in the afternoon light.

The little one was full of character, following its mum closely through the thick grass. Later in the afternoon, we even spotted two others just curled up and sleeping in the scrub. Seeing them like that, so content in the cold, really made the whole walk worthwhile. It’s those quiet moments with the locals that we’ll remember most.

A close-up of the little joey as it follows its mother through the grass.
A close-up of the little joey as it follows its mother through the grass.

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