We finally put those hundred winding curves from Queenstown behind us, and we must say, our stomachs were quite happy to settle into the flatter ground around Strahan. It’s a lovely little spot, tucked away on the edge of Macquarie Harbour, and we spent some time just driving around town to get our bearings. The water out there is so still and dark, and we weren't alone for long. Two black swans drifted right past us near the shoreline, looking far more graceful than we felt after that drive.

A couple of locals out for an afternoon paddle on the calm waters of the bay.
A couple of locals out for an afternoon paddle on the calm waters of the bay.

Just about a kilometre from the centre of town, we found the track to Hogarth Falls. It was exactly our pace—a nice, easy walk through some truly lush forest. Lisa was constantly stopping to admire the massive ferns, while Steve was more interested in the creek running alongside the path. The water here is such a deep, tea-stained brown because of all the button grass tannins. It’s a bit of a shock if you’re used to the clear blues of the West Australian coast, but there’s a real beauty to it.

The dark, tannin-stained water of the creek winding its way through the ferns.
The dark, tannin-stained water of the creek winding its way through the ferns.

The track leads you right up to the falls themselves. It’s a twin-drop of white water crashing down into a dark pool. The air was so cool and damp, and you could feel the mist on your faces.

Hogarth Falls tucked away in the rainforest, just a short stroll from the middle of town.
Hogarth Falls tucked away in the rainforest, just a short stroll from the middle of town.

We spent quite a bit of time poking around the edges of the path. The grandkids would have loved being "nature detectives" here; the forest floor was just covered in life. We spotted a cluster of tiny, bright yellow mushrooms growing on a mossy log that looked like something out of a fairy tale. Lisa nearly walked right over them, but Steve’s sharp eyes caught that flash of colour against the damp wood.

Some tiny yellow forest dwellers we found hiding on a mossy log along the walking track.
Some tiny yellow forest dwellers we found hiding on a mossy log along the walking track.

Later in the afternoon, we headed over to Morrisons Huon Pine Sawmill on the waterfront. You can smell the place before you even see it—that sweet, spicy scent of the timber is just incredible. We had a good fossick through the offcut bins. There were plenty of bits and pieces, but nothing quite jumped out at us today. We’ve decided we’ll have another look after our river cruise, once we’ve seen the trees in the wild.

The entrance to Morrisons Sawmill, where the air smells like the best timber on earth.
The entrance to Morrisons Sawmill, where the air smells like the best timber on earth.

To finish off the day, we drove out to Ocean Beach. People call this the "West Coast," but after today, we think the "Wet Coast" is a much better fit. It was a bit of a moody scene. The sand isn't that bright white we get back home; it’s a very dark, earthy colour, and the waves coming in were tinged with those same brown tannins we saw in the creek. It’s not exactly a place you’d go for a casual dip, but watching the Southern Ocean roar in really makes you feel how small and far away from everything you are.

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