We’ve settled into the National Park Hotel as our base for the week, and it’s exactly the kind of place we love. It’s a sturdy, no-nonsense building that looks like it’s weathered a century of Tasmanian winters without blinking. The clouds were hanging low over the hills behind it when we stepped out, giving everything that moody, misty feel that seems to follow us around this part of the world.
We headed out towards Styx, Tasmania, to find the real giants of the forest. We’ve seen big trees before, but the Big Tree Walk is something else entirely. Standing at the base of these massive gums, we felt like tiny ants. Steve spent a good few minutes straining his neck trying to find the very tops of them, while Lisa was more taken by the way the moss and lichen have claimed every inch of the bark.
The track took us along a beautiful wooden boardwalk that cut right through the heart of the ferns. It’s so quiet in there, with the damp earth smell and the sound of dripping leaves. We both commented that the grandkids would have been off like rockets down this path, seeing who could find the biggest fern frond. It’s a lovely, easy stroll that lets us really soak in the greenery without having to worry about our footing.
Our path eventually led us to the River Walk. The Styx River is a deep, dark tea-colour, stained by the tannins from the forest floor, and it flows with a real purpose. We found a spot where the water widened out, reflecting the silver sky and the dense wall of trees on the far bank. It’s a wild-looking river, cold and fast, and we were quite happy to stay on the dry side of the bank.
The moss is the real star of the show here, though. We came across a section of the river where the branches of the fallen trees are completely upholstered in thick, bright green moss. The water bubbles and froths over the rocks beneath them, creating these little white-water rapids that look like they belong in a fairytale. Steve joked that if we sat still long enough, we’d probably end up covered in moss ourselves.
After we’d had our fill of the big timber, we made our way over to Maydena to see the Junee Cave. It’s a remarkable spot where the river just seems to come roaring out from the base of a cliff. The power of the water pushing out from the cave system is incredible to witness up close. By the time we finished there, our stomachs were starting to rumble, so we made the short trip into the little town of Westerway. We found a quaint little diner that looked like the perfect spot for a feed. We sat down for a pleasant lunch, watching the world go by through the big front windows. It was the perfect way to finish a day of exploring the wilder corners of the valley.
