We were on our way from Jabiru toward Darwin, and the plan was to take in a few sights like the Mamukala Wetlands and have a good stroll around the Mary River Billabong. We’d even booked a spot at the Mary River Wilderness Retreat to break up the trip. However, plans have a funny way of changing when you're actually out here in the heat.
We drove the four kilometres of gravel road into the billabong, but the moment the dust started kicking up, I could see Lisa’s face tightening. We’d only just washed the car the day before, and she wasn't at all impressed with the idea of coating it in fine grey powder quite so soon. When we finally got to the start of the walk and saw it was a four-and-a-half-kilometre trek in that baking sun, we looked at each other and reached a silent agreement. Not today.
We kept moving, and it’s funny how the landscape shifts once you’re on the other side of Kakadu. The wetlands country feels different, more open in a way. In fact, we didn't even realize we’d officially left the national park until the signs for other parks started cropping up. We were just having a bit of a yarn about whether or not we should bother with one of those famous crocodile tours when, as if on cue, the turn-off appeared right in front of us.
It was a total last-minute decision to pull in, but I’m glad we did.
We missed out on the morning tour because it was already packed, so we had to wait for the one o’clock departure. It turned out to be a bit of a win, though. Instead of the smaller boats, we got to go out on the Adelaide River Queen, which is a big double-decker. The best part? The lower deck was air-conditioned. In this humidity, that felt like a gift from above.
Once we got out on the water, it didn't take long for the locals to show up. These aren't the kind of lizards you see in the backyard back home. They are massive, prehistoric-looking things that move with a scary amount of speed when there’s a bit of meat on offer.
Before we even got to the jumping part, we saw a few of them just lounging on the muddy banks. Seeing one of them lying right next to the boat gives you a real sense of perspective. Their skin looks like weathered armour, and they just watch you with those cold, calculating eyes.
When the crew started the feeding, the power on display was incredible. One of them drifted right up to the side of the boat, its yellowed teeth on full display as it anticipated the drop. You can see the sheer size of the jaw and the way those teeth are designed to lock onto anything that's unlucky enough to get close.
The real spectacle, of course, is the jump. For such heavy animals, the way they propel themselves out of the water is nothing short of explosive. One big fellow cleared nearly half his body length out of the river just to snap at a morsel.
Looking at them from behind as they launch, you can see the incredible muscle in their tails. That’s where all that power comes from. It’s a vertical thrust that happens in the blink of an eye, followed by a massive splash that sends ripples across the murky water.
I managed to get a close look at one as it breached the surface. Its underbelly is surprisingly pale compared to its back, and the way those jaws snap shut sounds like a car door slamming. There’s no hesitation at all; it’s just pure instinct and power.
Even when they aren't jumping, they stay right there on the surface, keeping an eye on things. One of them floated alongside us for a while, its mouth held open as if it were waiting for an easy snack to just fall right in.
The sheer scale of their heads is what gets me. When they look directly at you, you realize you're looking at a predator that hasn't needed to change for millions of years. It was definitely worth the wait and every cent of the ticket price.
After the tour and a bit of lunch, we pushed on for the final leg into Darwin. We’ve arrived at the caravan site, and if I’m honest, first impressions aren't much to write home about. It’s a bit basic, but we’re only here for a few days, so we’ll make do. The heat and humidity up here are something else—it’s the kind of weather that makes you move a bit slower and seek out the shade whenever you can.
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