The night was surprisingly pleasant, starting warm before a steady wind arrived around midnight. The temperature dropped to a crisp 10 degrees Celsius, and a brilliant full moon dominated the sky. It was actually brighter at one o’clock in the morning than it was during the pre-dawn light at six. During a brief wake-up in the middle of the night, we took the opportunity to bring in the washing before the dew could settle.
Our morning began with a short trip into Capricorn to refuel before we pointed ourselves north once again. The landscape transitioned into a beautiful stretch through the ranges, leading us toward our morning tea stop at the Albert Tognolini Rest Area. The weather provided a dramatic backdrop as we approached the higher ground.
The view from the Albert Tognolini lookout is spectacular, offering a clear vantage point through the Munjina Gorge. The sheer scale of the iron-red rock faces against the sparse vegetation highlights the ancient, rugged nature of the Pilbara. We spent some time taking in the scenery, which is easily one of the most impressive vistas along this stretch of the Great Northern Highway.
The white-barked trees at the lookout frame the gorge perfectly, their pale trunks standing in sharp contrast to the deep ochre of the cliffs and the dry, golden spinifex grass covering the slopes. It is a harsh landscape, but there is an undeniable order and beauty to it when viewed from these heights.
As we continued toward South Hedland, the reality of the region’s industrial significance became impossible to ignore. A steady stream of road trains, each pulling four trailers, passed us heading south. We timed them at one every 30 to 60 seconds. It was an unbelievable display of logistics and mechanical endurance.
South Hedland itself was as uninspiring as ever. It remains a functional, no-nonsense hub centered entirely on the mining industry. We stopped for a quick lunch, keeping our visit brief before moving on. The terrain outside of the town returned to the familiar sight of red earth and rocky outcrops.
By the afternoon, we reached the De Grey River stop. While it serves a purpose, it is not the most inviting place to linger. However, it remains the only free rest area of any significance between Port Hedland and Broome. After evaluating the various roadside stops, we decided to push further up the highway to the Pardoo Roadhouse.
We settled into the Pardoo Roadhouse park for the night. At $30 per night, it felt like a fair price for the location, especially considering the neighboring Cape Keraudren charges a $20 entry fee plus an additional $15 per person. As the sun began to dip toward the horizon, the vast, flat plains surrounding the roadhouse were bathed in a soft, orange light.
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